Architectural Jewelry
September 18, 2023“ARCHITECTURAL JEWELRY”
AESTHETIC & TECHNICAL CONSIDERATIONS, Mark Baldridge
See slideshow for detailed photos; artist notes below:
“ARCHITECTURAL JEWELRY” entry at the 2022 Art Faculty Exhibit at LCVA in Virginia. These slides (mostly) depict projects completed from 2017-2022, as Baldridge tries to make his entire house a piece of “architectural jewelry” focusing on light, color and design like he did when making jewelry. There are 11 projects, and mostly depict the before, during and after results. The chess set was created around 1976, and was one of the 45 craft objects included in the Vatican Museum (Rome) “American Crafts” exhibition.
1. GARAGE GEM & GLASS CHANNEL
This “architectural jewelry” piece features different textural glass blocks also adding Chinese dichroic blocks, with stained glass windows on top of them. Dichroic glass varies in color depending upon the light. The Chinese blocks are a little smaller than the American glass blocks, so one must use a bit more mortar between the two sizes. It took me an average of one hour per block to install them, not counting all the time spent cutting assorted wood spacers and adding special technical features to ensure the framing material was correct, and other special features to ensure no cracking of the blocks or mortar would occur 30 year later. A rope light was placed behind the gems to enhance them at night. The crystal gems were essentially channel set into aluminum, like diamonds in a ring or pendant. Smaller strips of U-shaped aluminum were inserted on both sides of the gem channel, to utilize the remaining space in the wood and add to the complexity of the design.
2. FRONT PATIO & STEPS
This project began around 1992 before I built our office addition, because it necessitated an additional entrance from our main front steps. Built in stages, I had to remove the former railroad tie steps (all 20 of them), wood planters and rock side walls, and build the forms for the concrete patio floor. Once solid, I had to build more strong wooden forms for 4 landings,2 planters and 24 steps, so the concrete would replicate the design.
All these forms had to be built in the negative, with reinforcing elements built on the outside, so the concrete could be poured and troweled smooth without forms being in the way. Because of the varying shapes, lengths of steps, multi-layers and all the intersections involved, it was very difficult to build and especially the curved sections, since wood does not like to bend and it had to be strong. The concrete contractor had to reinforce heavy sections, because of the weight. After pouring, I removed all the forms, then started building some of the stone walls, and added a couple of round concrete well casings for planters.
It stayed this way until around 2019 when we finally could afford to finish the project. We wanted the rest of the walls to be stoned, the level surfaces covered with slate and the step risers to be glass tiled. We selected two colors of glass tile, dark iridescent for the lower risers to represent the dark, ever changing, yet beautiful earth, but as the steps became higher and higher, a sky/robin egg blue, to represent the changing of energy to the sky. Energy comes from the ground, then thrusts upwards into the heavens. We chose slate, because it is the most permanent of exterior flooring, and produced great contrast with the glass tile. Buckingham/Arvonia slate is probably the best slate in the world, and also helps support the local economy. I researched typical slate tile patterns for assistance, but nothing replicated anything close to our complicated situation. Unfortunately, none of the dimensions of the slate were exactly the same, even though it came in 7 size possibilities it could vary as much as an inch or more in any direction. It was recommended to have mortar joints of a minimum of 1” because of this aspect, but that looked very sloppy, so I tightened it down to about 3/8”. I decided to follow the forward movement of a person approaching the front door and replicate this movement as a design element, flowing up the stairs, around the corner of the stairs and ending on the main patio floor. A person is then directed toward each of the two sets of stairs, then up the stairs again to the house rotating if necessary, then to the door. The design had to have a visual flow, be logical, functional and “have as much variety as possible that is organized and unified with no inconsistencies” (Baldridge’s golden rule). Many times, I also employed spatial tension to make viewers visually jump along these “energy lines”.Each piece of slate was labelled and had a pre-determined spot. The design was scaled to ensure correct placement.
During the slate application, I was working with our contractor and had to create a pattern for each piece of slate that needed cutting. The patterns were glued on (with rubber cement, since many glues aren’t waterproof and the patterns do need to be removed) and usually I personally cut much of the actual slate with water cooled diamond tipped blades. Some patterns were as large as 2’ x 2’ and normally the pattern would be made with paper. However, paper would quickly deteriorate and not last through the slow cutting process, so I had to use Tyvek, a thin plastic film. Unfortunately, so many patterns had to be placed into position, marked, cut and re-checked multiple times, before application. Since it was during the summer months with temperatures hovering between 90 and 100 degrees, and taking much time marking the pattern with adjustments, my sweat was dripping all over the plastic patterns so the magic marker would not work. Pattern making and cutting, took a lot of work, sweat, time and energy to ensure each piece was reasonably correct. Most slate was almost 1 1/2” thick and heavy. I then had to make paper patterns for the two circular concrete pipes, slanted at the top (angles are always more dynamic than non-angles) and crazy cut-outs to accommodate the existing concrete and stone work. For the angled tops, I had to utilize my high school geometry, mathematics and mechanical drawing abilities. Patterns taped into position, I again cut with diamond tipped saw blades, concrete dust spewing all over the place.
I contracted to have aluminum railings created and installed on the front steps, which added to the glow of the patio and employed more “architectural jewelry” and circular energy to the house. The aluminum contractor had to return two additional times welding my other aluminum projects (chimney trellis, chimney cap, garage crystal gems focal strip) and adding more railings.
3. ALUMINUM & GLASS TRELLIS
This aluminum trellis is 21’ high and about 4’ wide. It was created because the pyracantha below it was tearing up the cypress siding. The spikey plant was attached to the trellis, instead of rubbing against the wood. The first designs were very simple, me not wanting to spend a lot of time or money on it. However, as the design process continued, and the realization this was a real opportunity to enhance the house, each variation got more and more complex. I utilized the roof line angles of the patio and tower addition, to ensure logic, spatial tension and unity. I finally decided to include some jewelry elements, adding decorative glass post caps and unused glass tile from the front patio tiling project, which would also help unify this with the patio step risers. Like the aluminum grill work below the balcony, the aluminum was cut and assembled upside down on my garage floor. Upside down so the welding joints didn’t show. I also had to build a wood frame around the perimeter to ensure everything was square and didn’t move during the welding process. There were wood inserts between every negative space in the trellis, and sometimes 2-3 layers thick because of the different levels of the trellis, so nothing would move while being welded. I spent twice as much time on the wood inserts, than the cutting of the aluminum. After the welding process, all wood had to be removed, which was difficult in many parts, because the welding “beads” trapped many wood blocks, and they had to be carved to be removed. Next, a wooden sled had to be built so the trellis could be dragged out of the garage and into position to hoist it over the stone wall and across the grass, to be hoisted again up the side of the chimney. I added three old skate boards to the bottom of the framed trellis, so it easily slid out of the garage and across the driveway, although turning the sled was a slow and methodical process. This sled had to be very strong to ensure the hoisting ropes didn’t target one or two sections. The “weight pull points” had to be evenly distributed and additional supports included, to ensure we didn’t test the strength of the welding joints and tear the sculpture apart. I also had to build a strong pulley system on the top of the chimney to assist with the raising of the trellis, and not dragging it up against the front of the chimney, damaging the siding as it went. I even had to add temporary reinforcements on the back side of the chimney, to help distribute the additional weight. However, I didn’t orient my pulley properly and it kept going off its track. Consequently, it was of little use except to keep the trellis taunt during hoisting, giving the five of us a break, while we were dragging and hoisting it into position. It worked eventually, and afterwards, we all sat around many minutes recovering our breath, strength and saving the expense of hiring a crane.
4. ALUMINUM CHIMNEY TOP
We’ve always had problems with our living room chimney when there were heavy rain storms, water dripping into our fireplace, wet blotches on the brick inside the house, etc. Over the years, I’ve tried multiple solutions, but finally decided to solve the problem. I took a sheet of 1/8” thick aluminum, cutting out holes to accommodate both flues, one from the basement chimney and the other from the living room chimney. I folded down a 1” perimeter of the aluminum, so it was a giant aluminum cap, which was caulked around the two flues. Then, welders added the decorative aluminum structures I had created, that also possessed an angled aluminum roof top to deflect the rain. It solved the technical problems, and also added to the aesthetics of the house, “architectural jewelry”. I now see every problem as an opportunity to not only solve a problem, but enhance the situation.
5. PATIO CEILING
This ceiling was very difficult to create because I had to construct scaffolding below it, that would also be very movable while working, sliding it one way or another and at a workable height. The surface below encompassed multiple heights, because of the different planes of the patio floor, four sets of stairs, four landings and all at different levels. I also didn’t want a lot of nail holes in the cypress siding for additional support posts. The actual ceiling design also featured multiple layers for variety, and I had to construct and install wood channel in which to insert the decorative glass cubes.
6. GARDEN POOL RENOVATION
I originally built these pools around 1982 and when building them, I had both my children push their hand and one foot into the center of the wet concrete floor of the big pool, in a geometric pattern, then printed their names in the cement. My father always had me and my siblings do this to any of his concrete projects around our house. I added decorative ceramic tiles on the top edges and the face of the larger pool. I told the tile store it was an outside pool, so they also had me purchase an additive to mix with the mortar. To my horror, 7 years later the tiles started popping off because of freeze/thaw issues. I stripped all loose tiles off, and reapplied them, which took even more time than the original application. 7 years later, they popped off again. Technical knowledge was very scarce at that time, no internet, YouTube or Google searches. I eventually discovered the tile store sold me the wrong tile, which was porous. Only porcelain or certain impervious glass tiles can be used for exterior applications. Thank you tile store, you cost me at least a month of unnecessary labor! We have renovated these pools two additional times. The last time was to remove all the “swimming pool” paint, repair damage and coat it with exterior coatings (2022). The white overflow pipes are PVC pipes, sliced/ripped in half lengthwise.
7. ATRIUM TOWER AND SEATING UNIT
I only built this tower to help visually unify the lower “pond side” of the house, while building the much taller tower addition on the left “high side” of the house. Otherwise, the new addition tower would be an inconsistency. If you are outside viewing, and follow the angled roof line of this atrium tower from right to left, this roof top forces you to visually jump to the tower addition and creates spatial tension. Originally, there was no way to access this tower from the inside of the house without a tall extension ladder, so we finally smashed through the loft wall above our master bedroom door, and created a doorway above the master bedroom door. Then, we had to build a walkway from that doorway over to the new space. We had to remove all remnants of the original exterior windows. This walkway made it a bit darker in the entry space, so we installed recessed lighting in the ceiling of the new walkway, and installed glass panels in the railing supports. The walnut support posts of the railing had to be heavy duty strong, possess grooves to accept both sizes of the glass inserts, and be perfectly installed so the glass could be dropped into them. I had to build and install heavy duty jigs to ensure perfect placement and squareness of the support posts. The glass gem inserts can easily be removed, or changed at any time in the future. I also added poison sumac wood inlays (from my grandfather’s property) to the walnut railing, as a decorative element, because of its’ color and beauty (no, it won’t make you itch, unless it is sappy).
When we finally finished the new loft, Susan said she would like to buy some small, inexpensive loveseat or sofa she could find for seating. Even though she has great taste, thinking about what she said, I decided it would be safer for me to create what I think would look better, versus whatever she might find. I created one that is attached to the wall with a couple of screws, the top pulling off easily, so I could also add an electrical outlet. It is composed of 3/4” plywood, and faced with walnut, scraps of oak flooring and poison sumac wood from my grandfather’s land.
8. ELECTRICAL PANEL BOX ASSEMBLAGE
This sculptural piece camouflages the actual electric meter and four additional panel boxes necessary when we upgraded electrical service from 200 volts (normal house necessity) to 400 volts. I have no need to see all those industrial boxes and wires. I have included a picture of our neighbor’s electric boxes for comparison.
9. ALUMINUM GRILLWORK BENEATH BALCONY
When I first built the wrap around balcony/deck, we also started putting all sorts of things under the balcony and it quickly looked like a dumping site. I then built 5 heavy-duty hinged 2”x 4” grate doors to hide the mess, but because of their size and weight, it always looked disheveled and was awkward to handle. With my experimentation of using 1/8” thick heavy-duty rectangular aluminum tubing in a similar manner to using actual wood, it was an opportunity to make that side of the house glow. I built this grillwork on the floor of our garage, but upside down and boxed in with wood to ensure squareness and it had to fit. Upside down, so the welds would not be visible. I also cut and inserted wood spacers between the aluminum slats, to make sure nothing would move when the welding tip did its’ job. When the welders finished, I had to transport the grillwork from the garage floor, and around the top side of the house. I bought a 2’ x 4’ cart to transport all the old deteriorating railroad ties (250-300) we had previously used as a landscape tiers, but the grill was about 15 feet long, heavy and could tip over. I had to build wood additions to screw onto the cart, extending its length to 8 feet, and also had to build extensions on the sides, so it could not flop over. It took four of us to haul it around the house and put it in place. Once it was installed, I had to mark exactly where bolts were to be attached, mark it, then remove it (because there was not sufficient space to drill straight into the wood supports). Once the holes were drilled, we had to put the aluminum grill back into place, realign all holes and screw it in with stainless steel bolts.
10. CHESS SET
This chess set was included in the “Craft Art and Religion” exhibit at the Vatican Museum, Rome, and involved the work of forty-three American craftsmen, and the first American craft exhibition at the Vatican. Baldridge was one of only two Virginia craft artists included in the exhibit and kept track on the number of hours involved in its creation, all 2000 of them. It was cast in sterling silver onto stainless steel points that peg into brass tubing in the chess board. The kings and queen citrine stones on top of them, were spun on a lathe while being carved via diamond tipped bits, then more detail was carved and everything wasrefined and polished as all stones receive. The board was made from rosewood, poison sumac wood and walnut. The poison sumac came from a tree next to my grandfather’s shop behind his house. Even though this chess set was completed ages ago, I have included these photos, because almost no one at Longwood has seen them before.
11. STONE WALL WITH SEATING
Now that we have completed most projects, we are sculpting the entire land around the house and changing it dramatically. When we first had our house built, we wanted to build the house closer to the pond. Years later, I still dreamed about moving the house closer, which would cost a fortune. However, I realized, that while I could not move the house, I could move the pond. I hired a backhoe and the carving began; easier to move the pond than the house. Our problem is, with the completion of each project, it enhances the house and environment so much, it inspires us to do even more, and more, and more. This stone wall is an extension of a handicapped accessible walkway sweeping around the left side of the house and continues its sweep, ending with a stone bench uponwhich to sit and enjoy the beauty of the setting and pond. It is a blending of the house with the land. The stone walls on the front and pond side of the house are nearly completed. The final project is going to be a three-dimensional fountain with aluminum, light, stone and glass, that drops the water into a pool, then drops again into concrete and stone channels that project over the pond, creating a waterfall. We are already beginning the concrete and stone support pillar to support this creature.
FOR THE DESIGN CRITERIA USED ON THESE PROJECTS AND ALL OTHER BALDRIDGE PROJECTS, THEY ARE DETAILED ON THE WEB-SITE: www.MarkBaldridgeDesign.com and listed under “design philosophy”. If you aren’t into heavy reading, skip down half way for suggestions.